Sandwiched in Gratitude

Mango, cashews and chicken in a sandwich so tasty, it's better late than never!

Hodie non cras [Today, not tomorrow] 

-- motto of the 1st Hussars, Royal Canadian Armoured Corps

Last week's tribute to St. Expeditus, patron saint of procrastinators, couldn't have come at a better time. My tomorrow-is-another-day attitude has resulted in a shameful failure to express prompt gratitude to fellow bloggers for their recognition in the past weeks as well as in missed opportunities to participate in some great events. So today, I set things to right!

Thank You . . .

. . . Phyllis at me_HUNGRY!

Several weeks ago, Phyllis not only generously shared her oh-so-delicious recipe for pork and century egg congee at my request, she also extended her 'Sisterhood Award' to me and nine awesome bloggers. I met Phyllis on Foodbuzz almost two months ago and since then, visiting her site has become a habit of unadulterated food fun. In the past, we've exchanged chalkboard messages about eating sago larvae (she has), balut (I have), and century egg (we both have). If you think these are strange foods, then I urge you to take a walk on the weird side - check out Phyllis' regular feature, Weird Food Wednesday, as well as her many adventures in Big Apple eating.

. . . Jenn at Bread + Butter!

Jenn's food blog is barely two months old and she's already surpassed the total number of posts I've written since October 2008! Her simple yet incredibly creative dishes are a constant delight to her readers so it's no wonder that the accolades are starting to roll in. Last week, I was pleased to learn that I was among eight bloggers with whom Jenn shared her 'Friends' award. Powered by her boundless dynamism, her blog will leave you energized and craving more. A serving of this Bread + Butter is guaranteed to whet your appetite.

. . . Sam at My Carolina Kitchen!

In March, I joined Joie de Vivre in a discussion of the book Mindless Eating and it was through these posts that I connected with Sam - a food columnist, avid traveller and marvelous cook. A few days before Easter, I found two treats awaiting me on her blog: a fabulous recipe for Asparagus Goldenrod (which I served with our Easter Sunday meal) and the 'Adorable Blog' award, which she shared with me and Joie. Sam currently writes and blogs from North Carolina after having attained the quintessential dream of living on a tropical island in the Bahamas. But you can't keep a peripatetic soul in one place for very long - visit her site and revel in her experiences of culinary delights in the Provençal countryside through beautiful photographs and vivid reminiscences. Bon voyage et bon appétit!

. . . Phanitha at Phanitha's Kitchenette!

Ever wondered what Indian food tastes like . . . coming from a Japanese kitchen? Wonder no more as Phanitha demonstrates the marvelous dishes she cooks from her home in Tokyo. While there are plenty of traditional Indian recipes, such as dosas, chutneys and curries, she proves herself equally adept at Italian and Mexican cuisine and even ventures into fusion cooking with her own version of Indo-Chinese foods. Phanitha has received well-deserved recognition and last week, she kindly shared the 'I *heart* Your Blog' award with fourteen bloggers, including me. Drop by Phanitha's Kitchenette and you'll find that your *heart* and appetite are in the right place.

As always, I share these awards with all of my blogging friends. For more delectable food blogs, please click on the award links above to see which extraordinary bloggers were also recognized by these four peers and check out my blogroll, 'More Blogs to Love', in the right-hand column.

I'd also like to acknowledge having been recently 'memed' by Christine at Maman and Gourmand and Bytes from Texas: ladies, I'm working on my lists and will post soon, so help me, St. Expeditus!

Now, How About That Sandwich?

Thank goodness for second chances. Back in February, one of my favorite bloggers, Lori at Fake Food Free, co-hosted The Great Peanut Butter Exhibition #5 - Sandwiches (now that's a mouthful). I had every intention of entering but as we all know, the road to perdition is paved with plenty of those. But redemption has presented itself in the form of a sammich.

Earlier this month, Lori tempted us with Mango Week* by offering a variety of delicious dishes featuring this fabulous fruit. Then, she issued her Mango Recipe Challenge - to create our own mango recipes for the chance to win a box of goodies from Brazil! 'Nuff said.

[*For more mango mania, check out these great recipes from Mel at Bouchonfor2 and Kevin at Closet Cooking]

Lori, a certified nutritionist currently living in Brazil, offers not only healthy recipes and nutritional information but also insights into the country's food culture and its amazing array of edibles. One of her most interesting entries was about cashews, a nut that is a whole lot more than meets the eye! It was also the central ingredient in my never-submitted entry for the aforementioned PB Challenge. So, when this mango contest came up, I knew instantly what I would make.

In preparing this sandwich recipe, I was pleased to realize how it evoked both Brazilian and Filipino elements - the mango (mangga in Tagalog) is the national fruit of the Philippines and the cashew (caju in Portuguese) is native to Brazil. With that, I'm pleased to present my entry to Fake Food Free's: 

Caju-Mangga Chicken Sandwich 

Forget the mayo-based chicken salad sandwich - this recipe bathes mangoes and marinated chicken in a creamy, spicy and altogether irresistible dressing made with ground cashews and coconut milk. The sauce is adapted from a recipe by Amy Besan and Romy Dorotan of Cendrillon, the celebrated Filipino/Pan-Asian restaurant in New York, which sadly closed in early March 2009 after more than 13 years of business. 

Yield: approx. 2 cups of sauce and 2-4 sandwiches

Ingredients and instructions:

For marinated chicken*:

1 lb chicken (breast or dark meat), cut into strips

2 Tbsps soy sauce

2 Tbsps mirin (seasoned rice vinegar)

1 tsp minced garlic

1 tsp minced ginger

1. Mix all the above in a bowl and let chicken marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes;

2. Grill, sauté, stir fry or bake chicken as preferred and let cool;

3. Shred or chop meat and set aside.

*For a time-saving option, you can use a deli-roasted chicken.

For Cashew-Coconut Sauce:

1 cup roasted cashews, finely ground

1 lemongrass, minced

1 large shallot, minced

2" piece of ginger, minced

2 tsps canola oil

1 tsp sesame oil

1 cup coconut milk (I used 'light')

1 Tbsp sambal oelek or other chili paste/sauce

1 Tbsp soy sauce

1 Tbsp fish sauce (a.k.a. patis, nuoc mam or nam pla) 

1. Heat canola and sesame oils in sauté pan and lightly brown lemongrass, shallots and ginger;

2. Add ground cashews and coconut milk, and simmer for about 5 minutes;

3. Add chili paste, soy and fish sauces and heat through;

4. Sauce will thicken as it heats; to thin out, add water or more coconut milk as needed.

Alternative serving suggestion: 

This sauce is delicious with chicken or pork and served over steamed rice. Simply add 1/2 cup of chicken broth (or more, depending on preferred consistency) during cooking. Add pre-cooked meat toward the end and mix well. Serve over freshly steamed rice.

For sandwiches:

1 large ripe mango, diced

Chopped cilantro

2-4 bolillo* rolls, toasted

Lettuce leaves (optional)

1. In a bowl, combine shredded chicken, diced mango and cilantro. Add sauce by spoonfuls until desired consistency is reached;

2. Spread mixture on rolls and serve immediately!

*Bolillo is the Mexican name for this baguette-like small loaf; in Brazil, it is known as pão francês or pão de sal ('French' bread and 'salt' bread, respectively).

Bom apetite!

Lori is accepting entries to her Mango Recipe Challenge until May 22nd so there's plenty of time to put this delicious fruit to tasty use! Please visit Fake Food Free for more details.

Happy E-Day! (Expeditus, That Is)

Good Heavens! Cupcakes: a Saint's Day treat

Potius sero quam numquam [Better late than never].

-- Titus Livius, Ab urbe condita 

Yes, it's Earth Day and no, this post is not about that. Instead, I turn your attention to a day not long past and forgotten only so much as no one really noticed it in the first place: Sunday was St. Expeditus' Day.

Valentine and Patrick may get all the mainstream glory and commercial popularity but it's their brother in sainthood, Expeditus, who may be more relevant than many of us realize. As the patron saint of prompt solutions whose official day of observance is April 19, this obscure religious figure is invoked by those seeking protection from the scourge of procrastination. Given that this is a common state for most people (myself included), it's surprising that he is not better known. So, if you've ever wondered which holy being watched over the dawdlers, the slackers and the chronically tardy but haven't gotten around to looking it up, I offer this homage to St. Expeditus - a few days late, naturally. 

Happy Saint Who?

(From Wikipedia.org)

Expeditus' role as patron saint of procrastinators stems from popular legend in which the pious soul was intercepted by Satan disguised as a crow, who tried coaxing him into delaying his conversion to Christianity for another day. Crushing the fowl most foul beneath his foot, Expeditus supposedly declared, "I become a Christian today!" It is a scene repeatedly commemorated in images of him as a Roman soldier holding a cross that reads 'hodie' (Lat., today) and stepping on a crow crying 'cras' (Lat., tomorrow). 

Although a St. Expeditus does appear in the Roman Martyrology, the Catholic Church's official listing of saints, there are more than a few questions about the legitimacy of his existence, with two of the most oft-cited stories attributing his origins to mistaken identity due to an ancient typo and some rather obtuse nuns.

The first explanation centers around a medieval misspelling of the name 'Elpidius', an Armenian Christian who was martyred, along with five companions, in Melitene (now Malatya, Turkey) in AD 303. Some historians believe that a scribe mistakenly assigned the misnomer 'Expeditus' to that 4th century personage in an early catalogue of saints, resulting in today's attribution.

At least this version acknowledges the possibility that Expeditus was a real person. In another apocryphal tale of error, a group of Parisian nuns in the late 1700s received a box containing the relic bones of a saint and mistook the postal instruction 'spedito' (Ital., quick, speedy) for the holy being's name. Et voilà! A saint was born. In dispute, church scholars have pointed out that St. Expeditus was already being venerated in parts of Italy and Germany well before this 18th century event. So if nothing else, the nuns' story might serve as a cautionary tale about the potential drawbacks of monolingualism and cloistering.

Global Expeditiousness

Despite the confusion and outright skepticism surrounding St. Expeditus, he is nonetheless a figure of serious worship in many parts of the world. In the Philippines, the Society of St. Expeditus was established by one family after their prayers for help in selling some property were apparently heard; local churches now celebrate a triduum (three days of religious observances) and conduct a complete novena (nine days of prayer) in honor of his day (Darang). 

A 2004 article in the Wall Street Journal Europe described the growing veneration of Expeditus as the patron saint of urgent causes in Brazil, where numerous churches bearing his name and radio programs broadcasting invocations and prayers attest to his popularity, particularly among the jobless and the financially-crunched in all walks of life:

"The dozens of petitions deposited daily in a wicker basket on the altar of the St. Expeditus Chapel offer a litany of economic distress [and it] isn't just poor people who are seeking out the saint. An unemployed executive left behind his three-page resume . . . "

(Moffett, WSJE)

Roadside shrine for St. Expédit, Réunion Island 

(from Wikipedia.org)

On the French island of La Réunion in the Indian Ocean, 'Saint Expédit' is viewed by some as the national saint. Roadside shrines of all sizes abound, most painted in bright red after the Catholic Church attempted to discourage worship of the historically-dubious figure by stigmatizing it with the scarlet hue associated with sin. Instead, the island's considerable Hindu population found the symbolic color of the goddess Karli appealing and added their influence to St. Expédit's veneration (Goutier). 

Just as devotion on Réunion has mixed Catholic, Hindu and other folk-religion practices, the worship of 'St. Expedite' in New Orleans incorporates Voodoo practices. The saint is seen as a symbol between life and death and, fittingly, his statue is found in the historic Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, originally built as a mortuary chapel. 

Interestingly, the origins of St. Expeditus' worship in both Réunion and New Orleans are uncannily similar to the nuns' story: mysterious deliveries of saintly relics (in the case of 'Nawlins, a statue) marked only with the word 'spedito' . . . 

The Perfect Saint's Day

Despite these pockets of enthusiastic devotion to St. Expeditus, he doesn't come close to the familiarity enjoyed by other holy names in mainstream culture and that's quite a shame. As the patron saint of procrastinators, his intercession is probably needed by many people at some point throughout the year. In fact, consider this proposal: for each time a person fulfills a long-deferred task and for every moment an action is completed now rather later, it's an occasion for celebration. 

Finally got around to spring cleaning - in August? Happy St. Expeditus' Day!

At last wrote a 'Thank You' note to Aunt Marge for the Christmas gift of crocheted potholders? Happy St. Expeditus' Day!

Cleaned out the litter box before the funk got funkier? Happy St. Expeditus' Day!

We all have a little procrastination inside of us, so if there's something that you've put off completing, do it now and celebrate later.

Feasts for all Saints

And what would a saint's day celebration be without food? Corned beef and cabbage on St. Pat's and chocolates for St. Valentine's come first to mind but many others have foodstuff associated with their memorials, too. Saint Blaise's Day and its attendant ritual 'Blessing of the Throat' (to prevent throat ailments) is marked in Spain by tortas de San Blas, small breads which have been blessed then given to children to guard against choking for the rest of the year (Thompson, 488). In Sicily and among Italian-Americans, La Festa di San Giuseppe (Feast of St. Joseph) is not complete without the deep-fried dough puffs called zeppole, or St. Joseph's Day Cake.

How about St. Expeditus' Day? If you have a recipe that you've been meaning to make, go ahead and finally cook it.  Whether it's a savory or a sweet, the actual completion of your plans to prepare the dish fulfills the purpose of St. Expeditus' patronage, making any such dish the perfect food for the day.

Let those others have their one feast of the year: for those who prefer to wait, every day can be St. Expeditus' Day!

References:

Catholic Online (www.catholic.org) - Saints & Angels/St. Expeditus

Darang, Josephine. "Society of St. Expeditus turns 14 . . . " 

Philippine Daily Inquirer. April 13, 2008.

Dictionary.com

Goutier, Hegel. "Teixera da Mota, Réunion's First Mother . . . " 

The Courier. June/July 2008

Moffett, Matt. "An Obscure Saint Holds Mass Appeal for Brazilians . . . " 

Wall Street Journal Europe. April 15, 2004. pA1.

SPQN Saints Index (www.saints.spqn.com) - Saint Expeditus

Suite101.com - "St. Expeditus, Patron Saint of Procrastinators . . . "

Thompson, Sue Ellen. Holiday Symbols. 2nd ed., 2000

Wikipedia.org - Expeditus

Update 4/30/09: I am submitting this post to the Tasty Tools: Muffin Pans event hosted by Joelen of Joelen's Culinary Adventures. Are you surprised to hear that I'm finally doing this on the last day of eligibility?

Good Heavens! Cupcakes

These are a variation of Mr. Noodle's favorite mint-chocolate fudge birthday cake. I intended to make these treats for St. Patrick's Day but never got around to it, which made them the perfect choice to celebrate St. Expeditus' Day. In fact, I baked them on April 19th, the actual day of observance!

The original recipe from the now-defunct Barlow Foods in Rochester, MN called for a cake mix, chocolate fudge ice cream topping and Cool Whip but I've taken it back to the basics and made it from scratch. This dessert is best when served chilled.

Yield:  2 dozen cupcakes

Ingredients and instructions:

For the cupcakes:

(Recipe adapted from Pillsbury's The Complete Book of Baking)

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups sugar

3 tsps baking powder

1/2 tsp salt

1 cup 1% milk

1/2 cup butter

1 tsp vanilla

5 egg whites

2 Tbsps crème de menthe 

1. Heat oven to 350 degrees (F). Line muffin pan with cupcake paper cups, spraying with non-stick spray;

2. In large bowl, blend flour, sugar, baking powser, salt, milk and butter at low speed until moistened. Beat 2 minutes on medium speed;

3. Add vanilla, egg whites, and crème de menthe, and continue beating for another 2 minutes;

4. Spoon into cupcake-lined tin until 2/3 full;

5. Bake for 25-27 minutes or until toothpick inserted comes out clean;

6. Cool completely and set aside.

For the chocolate filling:

My plan was to use a chocolate pudding recipe from Jenni of Online Pastry Chef but I wanted to make half the amount. Naturally, I procrastinated in asking her how best to halve the recipe so I ended up using another one from Mr. Noodle's former co-worker, Tiffany. With this, I was able to use the 5 egg yolks left from making the cupcakes above.

3/4 cup sugar

2 Tbsps flour

5 egg yolks

1 cup 1% milk

1 cup half 'n' half

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 Tbsp butter

1 Tbsp Dutch-processed cocoa

1. Combine sugar and flour in small bowl. In a separate bowl, beat yolks, milk, and vanilla extract;

2. Pour liquid ingredients into a sauce pan and add dry ingredients, mixing well;

3. Cook over medium heat, constantly stirring with a whisk, until mixture thickens;

4. Remove from heat and add butter and cocoa powder, mixing so that cocoa is well-blended and leaves no lumps;

5. Transfer to another bowl; place a sheet of plastic wrap directly over the pudding to prevent a curdled top layer from forming as it cools. Set aside to cool.

For the whipped cream topping:

1 pint heavy whipping cream

1 packet Dr. Oetker 'Whip It' whipped cream stabilizer

1 Tbsp crème de menthe

2 Tbsps powdered sugar (optional)

Combine whipping cream, stabilizer and crème de menthe in a mixing bowl and whip until stiff. Set aside until ready to use.

For garnish:

Dark chocolate, shaved or grated

Sprigs of fresh mint

To assemble cupcakes:

1. Using a melon baller or a tablespoon measure, scoop out the center of each cupcake;

2. Fill each with chocolate pudding until level with the top of the cupcake and arrange on a dish or cookie sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator until pudding sets, at least 15-20 minutes;

3. Just before serving, remove cupcakes from the refrigerator and peel off paper liners. Top with a dollop of whipped cream (or use a pastry bag to pipe it on) and sprinkle with chocolate shavings. Serve immediately!

Update 4/23/09: If you plan to keep them more than a day or two in the refrigerator, it's best if they are stored in an air-tight container. I replaced them in the muffin pan and covered with plastic wrap - adequate for serving soon after being baked but insufficient to keep them from getting a bit dry due to the 'fridge's cold air.

Happy St. Expeditus' Day!

Of Birthday Blowouts and Long Life Noodles

Pancit Bihon: long noodles for long life

Me, L and Ate

One of my sisters celebrated a birthday last week and once again, I was the odd girl out. You see, my three sisters live within a few miles of each other in Redondo Beach, CA which means they can share all the important family events together while I, tucked away in the Midwest, am relegated to participating ex post facto through e-mails and phone calls. 

Baby sister, future blogger

And so it was last week, when Ate [pronounced AH-teh, meaning 'older sister' in Tagalog] was joined by the other two siblings, their respective spouses and children to help her celebrate another year while I had to settle for reading about it a few days later when our youngest sister wrote an account for her eco-lifestyle blog, neena creates. 

Of course, I was terribly disappointed to have missed such a special time for family bonding but what really burned my candle was missing a marvelous restaurant meal, courtesy of Ate and her requisite Birthday Blowout.

You may already be familiar with this term, which is often used to describe any over-the-top celebration, but for many Filipinos, it is nothing less than a social obligation. In an unspoken yet clearly understood custom, a birthday celebrant is expected to treat family and friends to a fantastic feast, preferably at a nice (i.e. expensive) restaurant - hence 'blowout', a cheeky acknowledgment that the final bill could obliterate the sponsor's bank account. It's great for the guests but something of a raw deal for the person who should be pampered, not pauperized, on their special day. So why is it an accepted tradition? 

Since much of the information I've found about the Pinoy-style blowout is mostly anecdotal and factually hazy, I can only offer a thesis based on my own observations: that it is an adaptation of long-standing traditions in response to increased urban living and wider dispersal of family members.

Come One, Come All!

Tita (Aunt) Vicki preparing lechon

The cornerstones of virtually all Filipino celebrations are family and food, and in this culture, there is an abundance of both. The super-extended familial system means that every relative within a day's travel is either involved in the planning of a party or must be invited to attend, no matter how distant the blood tie. By sharing in the preparation and by participating in the festivities, family members reiterate deep bonds, particularly across generations and between branches of the family tree. 

However, such gatherings are not limited only to blood relations or very close friends; often, professional colleagues and their families are invited as well. The non-kin social network is nearly as important to Filipinos as the one into which they were born:

"While individuals rely on immediate relatives for support and mutual benefit, they do not hesitate to enter into social relationships with non-kin, who may be physically more accessible or able to offer better professional service or economic benefits."

(Roces, 58)

It may seem like nothing more than a transparent ploy to curry favor by inviting your boss to your child's first birthday party. But this compadre system - adopted from the Catholic baptismal ritual of compadrazco, or co-parenthood (Roces, 48) - is an integral and fully-accepted means of extending the entire family's support network and adding to its prestige.

It also means that there are even more appetites to satisfy at a party! I can vouch from personal experience that for Filipinos, food is the primary measure of hospitality and there's no such thing as serving too much. No self-respecting host would risk hiya [hee-YAH], or social shame, by setting a sparse table or running out of food. In fact, it is customary to have enough party fare to wrap up and send home with guests (pabaon). This is not some underhanded strategy to get rid of leftovers but rather an honored tradition symbolizing the spirit of sharing the resources of community and family (Roces, 81).

Back to the Blowout

So, how does all of this relate to the birthday blowout? In recent decades, the Philippines has experienced good economic growth and greater participation on the global stage. This has spurred many young Filipinos to leave their communities for job opportunities in larger cities and, increasingly, other countries [according to 2007 census data, there were 1.75 million overseas Filipino workers (OFWs), of whom 55% were 35 years old or younger]. While this does not mean that the close kinship system has broken down, it does make it more difficult for many to participate in the family occasions that also serve to reinforce close bonds.

 Modern Manila: can old traditions adapt?

As a result, the non-kin system of friends and colleagues becomes the primary support network and old traditions are modified in response to social changes. Instead of the extended family coming together to organize and celebrate a birthday, the blowout allows the celebrant who is far from home to provide the commensality so intrinsic to maintaining social ties. Restaurants have taken the place of relatives to help prepare the feast and the choice of a higher-priced venue may signal the level of hospitality in the same way copious amounts of food do back in the family home. Finally, it is by no means considered 'unfair' that the birthday celebrator foots the entire bill - after all, one of the essential foundations of family and non-kin relationships is the idea of reciprocity. The generous person who shares their good fortune with others in the present can expect to be a recipient in the future.

Just as a family celebration is a small-scale version of a community-wide fiesta in which all members share resources and revelry, the birthday blowout has emerged as the micro-scale model of the same. By adapting to the realities of modern society, the spirit of an important Filipino cultural tradition is preserved and continues to help solidify critical social bonds.

Work Cited:

Roces, Alfredo and Grace. Culture Shock! Philippines: a Guide to Customs and Etiquette (3rd edition, 1992). [Link provided is for the 2002 edition]

Pancit Bihon (pan-SIT BEE-hawn)

Although we missed out on Ate's birthday blowout, Mr. Noodle and I celebrated big sister's special day with another important and delicious tradition adopted from Chinese food symbolism - 'long life' noodles! They are absolutely imperative for a Filipino birthday meal and as long as the noodles are uncut during both preparation and consumption, they can be anything from one of the myriad kinds of Filipino pancit to a noodle dish from another Asian cuisine to a serving of Italian long pasta. I chose to stay Pinoy and made Pancit Bihon, the classic stir-fry of thin rice noodles, vegetables, and meat seasoned with onion, garlic, soy sauce, and citrus. 

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

1 (8 oz) package of bihon (rice vermicelli noodles)

2 Tbsp canola oil

1 medium onion, diced

2-3 garlic cloves, minced

1 Tbsp lemongrass, minced

1 Tbsp ginger, slivered

1 1/2 cups cabbage, shredded thinly*

1/2 cup carrots, julienned or shredded thinly*

1.5 - 2 cups cooked chicken, shredded or sliced

2 links Chinese sausage, sliced**

Soy sauce

Patis [Filipino fish sauce, a.k.a nuoc mam (Vietnamese), nam pla (Thai)]

2 - 3 cups chicken broth

*For the dish pictured here, I used pre-shredded broccoli slaw!

**Update 4/20/09: dried Chinese sweet sausages are called 'lop cheong' - thanks for the info, Phyllis at me_hungry!

Garnish:

lemon or lime wedges (if you can find it, try calamansi!)

Scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal

To make:

In advance:

• Soak rice noodles in enough cool water to cover for about 20 minutes to soften. Do not use hot water or soak for too long - the noodles will be cooked in broth later and may become mushy before they absorb the broth's flavor.

• Rehydrate the Chinese sausages by gently simmering in a small pan of water for 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally. When done, cut into thin slices and set aside.
  

In a wok:

1. Heat canola oil and add onion, garlic, lemongrass and ginger; stir fry until onions are soft and translucent, being careful not to brown them;

2. Add cabbage and carrots and continue to stir fry until vegetables begin to soften;

3. Add soy sauce by tablespoons and patis by teaspoons, to taste;

4. Transfer vegetables to a bowl or platter, and set aside;

5. Drain softened noodles and immediately transfer to the wok; add one cup of chicken broth and bring to a gentle simmer, allowing the noodles to absorb the broth.

6. Stir occasionally to ensure that the noodles do not stick to the bottom. Do not cover or stir too much as this may result in mushiness! 

7. Continue to add chicken broth by the cup, allowing noodles to full absorb the liquid between each addition***, until desired consistency is reached. The noodles should be cooked through but still firm to the bite;

8. Reduce heat to low and add cooked vegetables, shredded chicken and sliced sausages to the noodles and gently toss to mix. Add soy sauce and patis if needed;

9. Turn off heat and transfer noodles to a large platter; garnish with lemon wedges and scallions. Serve immediately.

***Update 4/20/09: at the end of cooking, there should be NO broth or liquid left, which is why it should be added a cup at a time and be completely absorbed. This way, leftover noodles can be enjoyed later without the noodles becoming mushy. Thanks, Gastroanthropologist, for the query!

Happy Birthday, Ate!

Easter Unmasked

Uraro-Almond Cookies

The Moriones Festival

During our visit to the Philippines this past Christmas, Mr. Noodle and I spent an unforgettable day in my mother's hometown of Mogpog in the province of Marinduque, a small hamlet only 45 minutes from Manila by air (and interminable hours by land-sea route). Throughout the year, the town's residents hum along in serene obscurity - that is, until Eastertide, when a remarkable Holy Week event known as the Moriones Festival takes over the enclave and surrounding communities.

Forget about chocolate-bearing bunnies or peeping marshmallow chicks: Moriones is not for the faint of heart or weak of faith. Marked by colorful costumes, dramatic pageantry and dismaying acts of religious devotion, the festival is one of the most intense in the world and is wholly unique to the small island province of Marinduque, located between the larger Luzon and Mindoro islands of the Philippine archipelago. 

 (photo from J. Richard Stracke)

Although it served as the original archetype for other provinces' Easter events, Moriones is different in that it is neither focused solely on the Crucifixion nor does it involve the rather disturbing spectacle of modern-day penitents actually being nailed to a cross, which usually receives the bulk of sensational media coverage. Instead, the focal point is Saint Longinus, believed to be the Roman centurion who, upon piercing Jesus' side as He suffered on the cross, was miraculously healed of his partial blindness by Christ's blood splashing on his eyes. The soldier immediately converted to Christianity and was eventually martyred by beheading on the orders of Pontius Pilate (additional source: Catholic Saints.info). 

The origins of Marinduque's festival have been traced to a 19th-century Mogpog parish priest, Padre Dionisio Santiago, who organized a dramatic re-enactment of St. Longinus' conversion and martyrdom. What began as a Lenten pageant became the full-blown tradition of today in which local residents don elaborate costumes and fearsome masks representing Roman centurions. In fact, Moriones is derived from the word morion (Sp. morrión), a type of helmet worn by 16th century European soldiers (Dictionary.com) and, in the context of the festival, refers to the aforementioned masked participants. As for the men and women portraying the Roman legionaries, custom dictates that they are volunteers who wish to fulfill vows of penitence or to make pleas of divine intercession for ill health or other personal misfortunes.

Beginning on the Monday before Easter Sunday, the moriones roam town streets, playing pranks on adults and traumatizing young children for life. During the Good Friday re-enactment of the Via Crucis (Way of the Cross), they appear in a more somber and ominous role: tormenting the figure of Christ, burdened by a heavy wooden cross and accompanied by barefooted devotees whipping themselves in bloody penance. The culmination of the festival is the chase, capture and symbolic 'beheading' of St. Longinus by these quasi-centurions in the town square on Holy Saturday (note: the saint's actual date of death took place well after the Crucifixion).

Marinduquenos take great pride in this vibrant folk-religious tradition and none more so than the wonderful residents of Mogpog, from where it originated. True to their joyous nature, they have managed to find a way to observe one of the Catholic Church's most revered holy events with appropriate gravity and somberness but in a colorful, creative and celebratory way. 

[Sources for Moriones information: Wikipedia.org, Marinduque official website, Cockatoo.com] 

Colorful miniature moriones

Filipino Easter Food?

Unlike in other parts of the world, there are no specific foods that are particularly correlated to Easter in the Philippines. While special breads are baked in many European cultures and the traditional Easter table in the United States might hold a succulent baked ham, Filipinos take their fasting periods quite seriously and adhere to the Lenten prohibition of meat consumption on Fridays. On Easter Sunday, the celebratory feast is apt to consist of the same traditional festive fare (such as lechon) served during other holidays or is borrowed from other cultures (Italian pasta dishes and American-style baked hams are quite popular). After 40 days of penitent eating, anything goes!

Uraro-Almond Cookies

Lacking a dish specifically linked to Easter in the Philippines, I turned to one of Marinduque's most popular products - the uraro cookie. Also known as arrowroot, uraro is a starchy tuber that is ground into a fine, easily-digested flour more commonly used as a thickener (The New Food Lover's Companion, 27). Rejano's Bakery has been producing these bite-sized treats since 1946 and is considered the island's best source. After numerous attempts, I still have not cracked Rejano's secret recipe so instead, I offer this gluten-free shortbread recipe featuring arrowroot flour. (For another uraro recipe, see Lemon Arrowroot Wafers)

Yield: Oops, I forgot to count! Best guess is about 3 dozen.

Ingredients:

1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened 

1 cup powdered sugar

1 egg yolk

1 1/2 cups arrowroot (uraro) flour

1 cup almond meal

1/2 cup rice flour

To make:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees;

2. Cream butter and powdered sugar;

3. Add egg yolk and mix well;

4. Add flours in 1/2 cup increments, beating well between each; it should form a rather dense but soft dough which you can refrigerate to firm up;

5. To form cookies, pinch off a piece of dough and roll between your palms to form a grape-sized ball; place on a baking sheet lined with Silpat or parchment paper and repeat;

6. Bake at 325 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes or until edges are golden. Cool and serve with tea, coffee or cocoa!

Kain na! (Let's eat!)

For the real deal, check with Rejano's Bakery to find a retailer:

Rejano's Bakery

Bo. Banahaw

Santa Cruz, Marinduque

Tel: (042) 3211069

E-mail: mitareyes@digitelone.com