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Sunday, January 29, 2012

The Full Montadito: Topped Up Tapas


Tres Montaditos de Tangled

"Man does not live on bread alone." (Deuteronomy 8:3)

You can't argue with the Old Testament, which is why this woman knows well enough to pile on other good stuff, too.

Bread is inarguably a universal food found in nearly all parts of the world. If not made from grains such as wheat, rye, spelt, oatmeal and corn, then tubers like potato and cassava provide the flour power. Formed into baguettes, boules, braids, twists, rings, knots, rolls and flats, bread is baked in earthen pits, wood-fired hearths and electric stainless-steel ovens by home bakers and commercial food producers alike.

Bread nirvana at Circles Café, Shangri-La Manila
On its own, bread is fine nourishment, yet when a little extra is added, it turns into another state of being. For instance, plain toast is all well and good, but when slathered in butter, glazed with honey or mortared with peanut butter or hazelnut chocolate spread, it becomes a sweet treat for the tummy. Even better, bread can be transformed into a self-contained meal. Simply add a bit of meat here, some vegetables there, a dash of that seasoning and a dab of this condiment, and it becomes one of myriad alimentary aliases - sandwich, wrap, bánh mì, torta, muffaletta, panini, croque, bocadillo...

However, there are times when your appetite wants something... in between. What to do when you're struck by this hard-to-pin-down craving that hungrily straddles the pleasure of a small bite and the satiety of a full feast?

Mount Up...!

Montaditos
(Photo credit: Savesavour/Flickr)
...As in the Spanish verb montar ('to ride'), the root of the word montadito, a type of the popular bite-sized bar snacks in Spain collectively known as tapas, in which small slices of bread are topped, or 'mounted', with a variety of ingredients. Montaditos are essentially small open-faced sandwiches, although some consider a miniature version of the standard 2-slice sammie as an acceptable form. Also known as pintxo/pincho in the Basque region (meaning 'spike', as they are often skewered with toothpicks), these appetizers are countryside kin to canapés. But where those crustless hors d'oeuvres are elegant, manicured cocktail appetizers, montaditos are rough-edged, rustic finger food.

Long a part of the tapas lineup, the montadito is rapidly establishing itself as a stand-alone food concept, having recently been named among the 10 Trends for 2012 by consumer marketing firm and global trendspotter JWTIntelligence. Meanwhile, Spanish restaurant chain Cerverceria 100 Montaditos*, which has over 200 locations across Spain, France and Portugal, launched a New World invasion last year with its first American outlet in Miami, Florida. The small bites purveyor is thinking big with plans to open 4000 U.S. restaurants within the next five years (source: Businessweek.com).
*The chain subscribes to the mini-sandwich model of montadito, value-priced at $1.50 to $3 per order.

Monta-Do-It-Yourself

Fortunately for those of us not yet within the encroaching sphere of Cerverceria 100 Montaditos, this savory snack is only as far as the nearest Spanish restaurant, tapas bar or your own kitchen. With a few ingredients and some creativity, you can have a vicarious tapeo (tapas bar crawl) minus the crowds or the multiple bar tabs.

Montaditos menu board in Barcelona, Spain
(Photo credit: Marcos Esperón/Flickr)

It all starts with bread - ideally, a baguette. Why a baguette? It provides the perfect-sized base for montaditos, which are meant to be consumed in a couple of bites. It also stands up well to the sauces and oils of various toppings, soaking up the flavors without becoming soggy. Cut a nice crusty baguette into slices no more than 1/2" thick. The slices may be lightly toasted or grilled first, but do try to avoid an overly crisp base.

Next, add your toppings. For montaditos, pretty much any variety and preparation of vegetables, seafood, meats, cheeses and condiments that you can gather are suitable. Try to combine at least two ingredients with complementary flavors and textures, like the marvelous Montadito de Pan con Tomate, Chorizo y Huevos made by Yummy columnist and food blogger Joey of 80 Breakfasts.

Although Mr. Noodle and I are within walking distance of our favorite Spanish restaurant, we're content on occasion to put together a platter of montaditos on our own and enjoy them with a favorite bottle of fruity granacha-tempranillo at home. A recent selection:

Montadito de Longganisa con Queso Manchego

Inspired by the montaditos de sobrasada de mallorca served at Barcino Wine Restaurant and Bar in Metro Manila. The sausage is finely chopped, lightly fried then topped with melted Queso Manchego.

Bread:
 Pain à l'ancienne 
Toppings: Garlicky, black pepper-y longganisa recado from Nueva Ecija, Manchego cheese and a garnish of micro-tatsoi.



Montadito de Alcachofa con Alioli

Bread: Plain baguette
Toppings: Alioli, a garlic and olive oil emulsion sauce (I used a jarred alioli made with egg), marinated artichoke hearts and romesco sauce (see recipe below)



Montadito con Sardinas y Romesco

Bread: Pain à l'ancienne
Toppings: Sardines in olive oil and romesco sauce garnished with micro-tatsoi.


Roughly Romesco Sauce

Romesco, originally from Northern Spain, is a piquant sauce made with nuts, roasted red peppers and olive oil, among other ingredients. It's best served at room temperature and is excellent when paired with seafood.

Being the spontaneous (i.e. unprepared) cook that I am, some substitutions were required - hence, it's roughly a traditional romesco sauce.

Ingredients

1-2 dried chiles such as guajillo, New Mexico red or other medium-heat chile
2 slices baguette, toasted
2 whole canned tomatoes
2 Tbsps nuts (your choice, just not peanuts! I used mix of almonds, pecans, hazelnuts, pistachios & cashews)
4 cloves whole garlic, peeled
1/4 cup olive oil
2 Tbsps red wine vinegar
Salt to taste

For milder heat in your sauce, cut open the chiles and remove the stem, seeds and inner pith. Soak in water for 30 minutes or until softened.

In a food processor, combine all ingredients, except salt, and give it a good whir until the sauce is relatively thick and smooth. Add salt to taste. It may be refrigerated for up to one week but is best served at room temperature.

Montadito de 'Pinas

Another variation of the montadito de sobrasada de mallorca, this one also takes the form of the more sandwich-like variety of montadito and is made with fully Filipino goodness.

Bread: Pan de Rizal, tiny rolls about the size of an extra-large egg
Fillings: Longganisa Vigan, a garlicky sausage with a hint of yellowish hue, from the province of Ilocos Sur; and kesong puti, or white cheese, made from fresh carabao (water buffalo) milk.



What would you put on your montadito?

¡Buen Provecho!

Monday, January 2, 2012

'12 by the Dozen: New Year Eggs


Olive Oil-Poached Egg
"Ex ovo omnia" (Everything from an egg)

All I got for Christmas was a dozen eggs.

Well, I did get a bit more than just eggs and nearly all of them were also food or drink-related: a jar of fudgy chocolate crinkle cookies; a llanera (oval mould) of the creamiest, smoothest leche flan; and several bags of Filipino-grown coffee. But none could match in meaning the humble dozen of perfectly-shaped ovums from Abra province that my mother gave to me.

Packaged in a beautiful basket of hand-woven nipa palm leaves, each copper-colored egg was surprisingly hefty in weight, compared to their anemic, plastic-ensconced supermarket counterparts. Though cozily nestled within individual circlets, they hardly needed the extra coddling: when it came time to cook one, its supposedly delicate shell proved surprisingly resistant to all but the firmest tap against the pan's edge to crack open. Inside, the translucent albumen surrounded a gloriously orange yolk, making a breakfast fried egg look more like sunrise on a plate.


In an age when people will camp out in the freezing cold for holiday bargains or risk a faceful of pepper spray during a retail frenzy to grab the latest iGadget or 'It' product, a dozen eggs may not inspire such effort and enthusiasm as a gift. But as the new year begins, they proved to be a perfect present to represent a hopeful future...

New Day Around the World

The egg is a universal symbol of birth and rebirth, of new life and new beginnings. As an icon of a special holiday, it is more closely associated with the Christian tradition of Easter and spring than with New Year and winter. However, recognition of January 1 as the standard first day of the calendar year in Western culture has actually been in place for less than 400 years; before then, New Year's Day was also celebrated during springtime. By moving it from the vernal equinox to winter solstice, we ceded the season to Eastertide and left behind the egg as a symbol.

Today, many other cultures continue to usher in the New Year during springtime and the egg is an important object in their celebrations. During the Persian Nowruz (meaning 'new day'), which coincides with the first day of spring, painted eggs are part of the Haft-Sin (or Haft-Seen), a traditional table setting featuring 7 symbolic dishes beginning with the letter 'S'. Although the eggs now represent fertility, when taken with another item in the setting - a mirror - an older meaning emerges. At the hour of transition from old year to new, known as sa'at-i tahvil, family members gathered around to observe the display:
"Each one imagines a huge bullfish in the ocean of time carrying the world on one of its horns. Any moment now, the bullfish will toss the world over to the other horn, resulting in a tremor that will dislodge the egg and send it rolling to the side of the mirror. As soon as the egg rolls, [family members], rejoicing, kiss each other [and] exchange Nowruz greetings - eid-i shoma mobarak! (May you have an auspicious new year)... 
"The first thing to eat [at sa'at-i tahvil] should be an egg, because it is believed that eggs ensure good fortune. In fact... the patriarch of the family must eat all the eggs that have accompanied the candles placed for each offspring on the sofreh!"  (Bashiri, n.p.)
Nowruz Haft Sin with eggs and mirror.
(Photo from Wikimedia.org)
Spirited Celebration

Eggs are also prominent in the New Year celebrations of the Hmong people, an ethnic group originally from the mountainous areas of Southeast Asia. Raw eggs and incense sticks are displayed in a bowl of rice, then later cooked for a special ceremony called Hu Plig ('Calling of the Soul'). Part of many Hmong occasions, the Hu Plig summons spirits, both of the living and the departed, for different reasons: during a wedding, it joins the souls of the bride and groom, and encourages household spirits to welcome the new family member. In times of illness, which is believed to be caused by the soul wandering from the body, performing Hu Plig calls it back to corporeal health.

(Photo from Mekong&ChiangKhong/flickr)
For the Hmong New Year, usually celebrated in November or December, the ritual is a way for families to invite the souls of all loved ones to join in the festivities. As part of this Hu Plig, plain hard-boiled eggs are cooked, representing both blessings for the living and as offerings to the hungry departed. Afterwards, each (earthbound) person in the family receives an egg/blessing to eat. [Check out this video for a glimpse into a Hmong New Year Hu Plig.]

Science, Myth and Dreams

The symbolic power of the egg is recognized in other, even more mystical areas. In alchemy, which may be described as the philosophy- and metaphysics-influenced forerunner of modern chemistry, the philosophical egg was the vessel in which alchemical processes were created. The ovum is also a symbol of Prima Materia, "the original material from which the universe is created", with which one could make the Philosopher's Stone - the mythic substance that, among other powers, can supposedly turn lead into gold.

In dream interpretation, eggs represent many things, depending on what is being done with it. If an egg is being consumed or prepared as food, then it can symbolize nurturing, self care, fertility and birth. However, if it is viewed as a non-food object, then it can mean creative potential and new beginnings.

(Photo from Wikimedia.org)
Are You Eating Lucky?

In last year's post about Filipino New Year celebrations, I touched upon the tradition of gathering certain foods - usually in shapes and colors mimicking those of currency - to represent good luck and to invite prosperity in the coming months. Eggs were absent from this list and yet, from what I have learned above, they would seem to be equal, if not better, harbingers for a hopeful and successful twelve months.

The way I see it, an egg does not simply invite good luck to fall into our laps, as coin-shaped fruit or leafy greens seem to suggest. Instead, as its dream symbolism suggests, it is already heavy with the potential for success and good fortune enclosed within its shell, waiting to be cracked open and released. Even then, as with an alchemical process, a transformation must occur and extra effort still needed: an egg is an omelette only after it is beaten and cooked, or a cake after it is mixed into the batter and baked. Similarly, I can wish all I want to write a bestselling novel or make a million dollars, but in the end, it is up to me to make the effort and write the words or seize the lucrative opportunity in order to realize the potential. Blessings, gold or prima materia, something special awaits us in the New Year.

All I got for Christmas was a dozen eggs - and twelve months of exciting possibilities ahead.


Sources
Bashiri, Iraj. "History of the Persian New Year." Farsinet.com
Becker, Udo. Continuum Encyclopedia of Symbols. NY: Continuum, 2000. pg 94.
O'Mally, Julia. "Spirit Gatherer: Shaman Plays Important Role in Hmong New Year's." Anchorage Daily News (via Anchorage School District). 26 Nov 2006.
Scripter, Sami and Sheng Yang. Cooking from the Heart: the Hmong Kitchen in America. Minneapolis: U of MN Press, 2009. pg 126.


Olive Oil-Poached Egg

What can you not do with an egg? Whether on its own, as an equal component in a dish or rendered invisible as a utilitarian ingredient, the possible uses for an egg in cookery are too numerous to list here. So, I'll share just one.




Last summer, I had the pleasure of interviewing Jaume Viñallonga, Executive Chef of Barcino, a multi-location wine and tapas restaurant in Metro Manila. A graduate of culinary school in Girona and trained in acclaimed restaurants, including the 3-Michelin star Akelarre in San Sebastián, this young Spanish chef is well-versed in modern cuisine, but prefers to eat simple and traditional Spanish fare at home. His vivid description of a favorite meal - egg cooked in olive oil - inspired me to try it myself, with some help from this video.


Except for the egg and olive oil, feel free to change up any of the seasonings to achieve your preferred flavors.

Ingredients

Olive oil
Egg
Pinch or two of dried herbs, such as oregano and thyme
Pinch of red pepper flakes
One small bay leaf
One garlic clove, peeled and smashed
Salt
Fresh herbs, minced (optional)

To make:

In a small fry pan (ideally about 4-5" in diameter), pour enough olive oil to cover about half of the egg and add dried herbs, pepper flakes, bay leaf and garlic. Heat over low temperature (according to the video, the oil is ready when it is hot but you can still touch it without getting burned).
Crack the egg into a small bowl then slide it into the oil. Cook until the egg white is firm, flicking the oil with a spoon or spatula to reach the yolk and other spots that are above the oil.
Remove egg with a slotted spoon. Sprinkle with salt and fresh herbs, and served with baguette slices.
Reserve the now-flavored oil for later use.


A couple of other egg dishes I hope to try soon: