Kiss me, I'm Filip-Irish!

Tuesday, March 17, 2009 51 comments

A Filip-Irish dessert: not quite a shamrock . . . 

I am not Irish. Not even close. Oh sure, I can try invoking heritage through matrimony: my mother-in-law's lineage traces through a grandmother who emigrated from County Clare at the turn of the century. But the undeniable truth is that I was born in the Philippines to fully Filipino parents whose gene pool holds plenty of Lopezes, Villasters and Valeros but nary a Murphy, O'Sullivan or Kelly. Tagalog, yes; Gaelic, no.

I possess not a single iota of Eire and yet, like millions of other non-Irish people in America on this day, I am celebrating St. Patrick's Day as if to the Irish manner born, complete with wearing of the green and pouring of the Guinness. While science may belie any genetic connection I claim to Erin, it can not deny me the wondrously peculiar affinity I have for Ireland.

When Mr. Noodle and I travelled to that fair isle in late spring of 2007, the 10 days we spent driving from Dublin to Killarney and back seemed almost like a homecoming. I felt so comfortable in my own skin - that is, without any of the anxiety that accompanies being a stranger in unfamiliar surroundings and among new people. Instead, I basked in the same sense of naturalness as when I visit my sister's home in California or during our recent trip to the Philippines: I knew that, somehow, I belonged.

Flowers on a Skerries beach

Some people may explain it away by saying that Ireland's economic success in the past decade has made its cities, particularly Dublin, as cosmopolitan and multicultural as any international urban center, and that its participation in the global marketplace has made access to familiar material goods and service as easy as it is in the US. But I didn't feel this rapport only as I strolled down and around Grafton Street among well-known American and European retailers and food purveyors. 

A Kilkenny street
I felt it when I peered through the window of the local butcher shop in Kilkenny to marvel at the fresh cuts and sausages; when I stepped into the silversmith's workshop in Kinsale to admire the beautiful work of its friendly proprietor; and when we tucked into delicious seafood at Stoop Your Head in Skerries. And it hummed through me like the sweetest musical note at Gleninchaquin Park near Kenmare as Mr. Noodle and I gingerly tiptoed up a steep hillside generously mined with sheep poo, before reaching the top of a magnificent waterfall and gazing upon a verdant valley dotted with those same thoughtful sheep. How to convey the utter beauty in words? I simply can't. Capturing it in photographs was nearly as impossible but hopefully these offer a glimpse.

Gleninchaquin Falls through trees

Gleninchaquin vale - trust me, those poopin' sheep are there!

Skeptics among you may say that anyone who has ever enjoyed a vacation in any part of the world can claim such a connection and see themselves throwing off the drudgery of everyday life for a perpetual holiday. But I honestly think there's something primal at work, as if the Irish and Filipinos share some cosmic bond that make us closer than the 7000 miles (as the crow flies) between our island nations. So, to start connecting the dots, I've compiled this list of commonalities between the Philippines and Ireland. 


Separated at Birth? 
Five Things Shared by the Irish and Filipinos
(Many thanks to Brenda at Aesthetic Dalliances, whose own wondrous lists inspired this one!)

1.  Beer. What else could possibly be number one? Although they are distinctly different drinks, Ireland's dry stout Guinness and the Philippines' San Miguel Pale Pilsen are both humble home brews that have become iconic brands regionally and globally, and are now conglomerates encompassing other spirits such as whiskies, tequila, vodka and gin (Ginebra San Miguel is considered the world's best-selling gin, although most of it is consumed by Filipinos). Whether it's Guinness and oysters or San Miguel and sisig, Filipinos and Irish know that everything tastes better with a pint.
(Other sources: San Miguel Corporation, Diageo)

Coconut: the Philippine Potato
2.  The Ubiquitous Foodstuff. The preponderance of potatoes* in Ireland is exceeded only by the copiousness of coconuts in the Philippines. According to Central Statistics Office Ireland, potato yields in 2007 equalled 220 lbs of spuds per Irish citizen while every Filipino could expect 330 lbs of coconuts, based on 2005 yields per the Philippine Coconut Authority. (These numbers are probably closer minus the weight of the latter's shells.) As a result, potatoes and coconuts enjoy prominence in their respective national cuisines with the tuber standing on its own in such dishes as Colcannon or as an integral part of others, such as Irish stew, while the big brown nut is used in both savory dishes such as ginataangs (method of cooking using coconut milk) and most desserts. If you haven't had a potato during an Irish meal or some coconut in a Filipino one, then I don't know what cuisines you're eating.
(Other sources: CIA World Factbook Ireland and the Philippines) 

*For more on the great potato, visit the awesome Daily Spud, winner of the 2009 Irish Blog Awards' Best Food/Drink Blog!

3.  Religion. Although there is some debate about growing secularism or conversion to other faiths, Ireland remains a pre-dominantly Catholic country with nearly 87% of the population baptized as such. Similarly, the Philippines is still very much a Catholic nation but is also dealing with comparable issues as Islam and other Christian denominations attract more adherents. Nevertheless, with 80% of the population as followers, the Church of Rome still holds strong sway among Filipinos. On a lighter note, this means that both cultures feature a whole host of saints' feast days - like St. Patrick's! - that calls for festivity and celebration, naturally centered around food and drink. Amen to that!
(Sources: CIA World Factbook Ireland and the Philippines)

4.  Driving. This is strictly a personal, Tangled observation: driving in either of these countries requires a stout heart, a firm grip and really good car insurance. We agreed during our Ireland trip that Mr. Noodle, being the better navigator, would handle the map while I drove. For the next 10 days, dear husband sat trapped in terror on the passenger side as I careened through the impossibly narrow paths that pass for Irish back roads, with impenetrable hedges on one side and oncoming traffic on the other. It was no better on more well-traveled routes: driving the Ring of Kerry in our little rental was a constant game of chicken with tour bus drivers who couldn't care less if we were scraped up against the cliff walls or launched over the cliffside. At least there are road rules in Ireland - in the Philippines, and specifically Manila, it is anybody's game. Traffic signals and signs are merely suggestions, and regardless of painted dividers, the number of driving lanes depends only on how many cars can squeeze abreast without actually touching.  But I'd rather be in a car than on foot: pedestrians crossing the street deserve combat pay and an award for valor. After these experiences, damn straight I want a Guinness or San Mig.

5. Gems of the World. Last but never least, the natural beauty and incredible hospitality to be found in Ireland and the Philippines have earned them jeweled monikers - the Emerald Isle and the Pearl of the Orient Seas. For those of us who have been to both lands, no further explanation is needed; for those of you who have yet to experience them, I'll leave you to discover the treasures behind these names. 

Although my experiences and connection with all things Irish are miniscule compared to that of my birthplace and fellow Pinoys, I consider them just as precious. So, in honor of the lovely nation in the North Atlantic, in whose patron saint's name we celebrate today, I offer this sweet dessert that bears hallmarks of both cultures - coconuts and the color green - for a truly Filip-Irish treat.

Erin go bragh and Mabuhay! [Ireland forever and long live!]

Buko Pandan
This dish is as simple as its name, consisting of strips of buko, the soft, custard-y meat of a young coconut, and gelatin cubes flavored with pandan, a slightly floral essence extracted from screwpine leaves (Pandanus amaryllifolius) and used widely in Southeast Asian cooking (Food Lovers' Companion, 614). Folded into a mixture of whipped cream, coconut cream and sweetened condensed milk, buko pandan can be chilled to an ice-cream consistency that's both rich and refreshing. 


Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

1 pkg Pandan gelatin mix (also referred to as 'pudding' and found in many Asian groceries)
1 cup buko, cut into strips*
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1/4 cup coconut cream**, chilled
1/4 cup sweetened condensed milk

*Frozen buko may also be used. For this recipe, I couldn't find buko so I used freshly grated coconut instead.
**Coconut cream and coconut milk are NOT the same! The cream is much thicker due to less water content and it should be as available as the milk. It makes a huge difference with the texture of this dessert so it's worth looking for. 

To make:

1. Prepare gelatin/pudding as directed;
2. While gelatin is setting, combine heavy cream and coconut cream and whip until stiff peaks form;
3. Gently fold sweetened condensed milk into whipped cream until just mixed;
4. When gelatin is firmly set, cut into bite-sized cubes (or size as desired) and place into a bowl with the buko strips;
5. Add sweetened whipped cream, folding mixture gently until all pieces of buko and gelatin are well-coated;
6. Cover and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. This will yield a soft, creamy sauce. For a more ice cream-like consistency, place in the freezer for an hour before serving. 


51 comments:

  • Anonymous said...

    I've always wanted to visit Ireland and when we went I felt exactly as you did. If I were to choose a third home country, it would definitely be Ireland. We just loved everything about this wonderful country.

    I love your dessert! Very unique, I would love to have a taste!

  • Anonymous said...

    On this day of Irish days, you have entertained me mightily with this post. You realise that I will have to explore the idea of the Philippine Potato sometime on the Spud for sure. That, and I will have to make it my business to get to the Philippines some day. Sounds just like home! :)

  • Chef E said...

    Awwweee, I have to drag my photos out now Tangle! I was there 13 years ago, and I drove out of that airport like I had been driving there all my life! Loved the turn abouts!

    Here to you girl I love your spirit, writing and food!

  • Anonymous said...

    awesome post - just wonderful - I have the added advantage of having a mental image of the two of you picking your way through sheep poo and Mr. Noodles colorful opinions.

    Your Mom-in-Law is getting very excited about her upcoming trip - maybe after she sees this post she'll consider other resources aside from Rick Steves, but I know we'll have the book with us.

  • Lori said...

    This post was beautiful, so well written! I experienced a similar feeling while in Ireland although for reasons that are very different I'm sure. I enjoy it there so much.

    Our first trip there was April 07, Holy week before Easter. It would be really wild if we were there at the same time. Although on that trip I stuck to Dunboyne where we were staying and spent my days in Dublin city with a mini trip to the Clifs.

  • Reeni said...

    Ireland is such a gorgeous place. I can see why you would feel the way you do. Your dessert is so pretty, and delicious, coconut cream, mmmmmm!!

  • Michele said...

    Beautiful post Noodle. Very moving. It reminded me of my childhood best friend in Saudi -- she was 1/2 Filipina, 1/2 Kentuckian, but embraced both heritages.
    I do have Irish heritage, but it is odd how that Emerald Isle can have such a welcoming effect on some souls. I felt a similar homecoming to the place, even though I'm very much a warm-weather, southern/desert girl.

  • Sapuche said...

    Ah, you make me want to immerse myself in Ireland and the Philippines! A great post, as always! I admire how you’ve taken what would appear to be two very disparate cultures and convincingly shown us an unknown kinship between them. It’s amazing how travel can open one’s eyes and heart and enable such profound connections to be seen and felt. And it’s wonderful that you felt a sense of naturalness in a country you’d never formally visited before. Thank you for sharing this, and I hope you enjoyed St. Patrick’s Day, complete with green attire and Guinness Beer!

  • Maria Verivaki said...

    i havent been to ireland, but its an island i would love to go to, being very much an islander myself

    i love the PATRICK but it is not part of the greek orthodox culture, so unfortunately i dont have any patrick a happy nameday

    i was surprised to learn that driving is so haphazard in ireland, but i dare to ask: is it more haphazard than in greece???!

  • Anonymous said...

    I love coming over here and reading your delightful, thoughtful, evocative posts.

    The dessert looks wonderful--your description allows me to taste it through the screen. And your five points of similarity between Ireland and the Philippines may well be another argument for Pangaea!

    (This is the second time I tried to comment--the first one got eaten by the Hinternet. If they both show up, feel free to delete one) :)

  • Brenda said...

    Well thank you for the flattering mention on your hilarious top 5 list! I have some friends in NY who are also an Irish-Filipino couple and have sent this along to them. They, like you, have found many uncanny and seemingly unlikely similarities between the two cultures!

    I've never heard of Pandan or buko, but am excited to try them. I used to live in a Filipino area here in London, so I'm willing to bet they'll have them at their specialty stores there!

  • Gera@SweetsFoodsBlog said...

    I really want to visit Ireland and Philippines, beautiful countries in all senses!

    Your dessert Buko Pandan looks very refreshing, and full of flavors cream, coconut cream and condensed milk-perfect for my sweet taste :)

  • Anonymous said...

    I love the comparisons between the Filipinos and the Irish. I would also add that both share a proud sense of culture and a zest for life. ;)

  • Cris said...

    Oh no... just wrote a huge comment here and google said there was an error??? Ok, again.... I loved the comparisons, as for the driving, is that bad? What did your hubby say about our driving? And I don't think we have coconut cream here, only milk and water. It looks delicious... for hot days like we're having it would be just great! Beijos

  • Tangled Noodle said...

    Wow! I have a lot of catching up on replies so here it goes . . .

    5 Star - It really is an almost magical place! We are determined to return for a longer visit. As for the dessert, I should've noted that the cream sauce is really quite good with any kind of gelatin.

    Daily Spud - I bet there's a recipe out there with both potato and coconut (that is preferably also palatable). I hope you do make it to the Philippines some day but in the meantime, I believe that there's a good-sized Filipino community in Dublin. At the very least, there are more Pinoy restaurants there than here in MN so if you're feeling adventurous . . .!

    Joie - Thanks! It's fun to re-ethnicize myself (or as Wansink puts it, using an evocative descriptor!)

    Doggybloggy - The dessert tastes totally awesome, too! From a Filip-Irish to a SpanIrish, thank you!

    Chef E - Thank you! I'm always looking at our vacation pics to remind me of such a wonderful visit and that we need to go back asap! Getting used to the driving (right side wheel and lanes) took about 7 of the 10 days (I'm a slow learner) but once I got the hang of it, it was much easier. I loved the turnabouts too; they're experimenting with them in Mpls but it's just freaking out drivers. 8-)

    Greg - I'm pleased to hear it!

    Spryte - Please let me know how you both enjoy it! I'll do an addendum to the recipe - if you can't find the pandan jelly/pudding, feel free to use another flavored gelatin or Jell-O and simply substitute milk for the water to get the opaque look.

    Oyster - Actually, the colorful opinions were emanating from me! 8-) You two are going to have an awesome time!

    Hungry Gal - Thank you! I had such fun writing it. I tell you, my husband was addicted to this combo the moment he tasted it! I'd had pandan in savory dishes but it was also my first taste in a dessert. Yum!

    DuoDishes - What a lovely thing to say! Thank you! But I do hope you'll visit either place - we consider ourselves so fortunate to have had the opportunity before the economy put a crimp on our finances. The memories will tide us over until our next chance.

    Lori - We were there just a few weeks after you! As long as we stuck to the national roads, driving wasn't as stressful and I was amazed at how much we could cover in one day! We drove from the 'west coast' Killarney back to Dublin in a day and that was with leisurely stops along the way. Hope we run into each there or in Brazil some day!

    Girlichef - I'm convinced of it! 8-) The five facts came pretty quickly to me, confirming that affinity! I'll be sure to let Mr. Noodle know you enjoyed his photography skills.

    Reeni - Thank you! I hope we'll get a chance to return. As for the dessert, it's delicious and dangerous - all the creaminess has a price (which I gladly pay!)

    ChefBliss - I'm so happy you enjoyed it! Looking back, we giggle at the driving experience but at the time, I think Mr. Noodle could've used a Valium.

    Phanitha - Thank you so much!

    Michele - Thank you and I'm glad it brought out a special memory. Ireland didn't LOOK different from other geographies but there was something different that I just can't describe . . .

    Sapuche - You know better than many how to immerse yourself fully in a different culture so I truly appreciate your words! Whenever I read posts from bloggers all over the world, I often pick out little things that seem so familiar and that's when I realize that if we take the time, as you say, to travel with open eyes, hearts and minds, we can find these connections, no matter how strange and different we seem to each other.

    Passionate - Thank you! It was a yummy bowlful, too!

    Chitra - Many thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

    Maria - I think those of us whose heritage are rooted in islands must have a natural affinity with one another! You'll have to describe driving in Greece but I can tell you that the driving in Ireland was stressful because of the narrow roads that weren't built for the modern cars and huge buses that are now found all over! Also, road signs are few and far between: we got lost so many times! We just kept telling ourselves that it's not that big of a country - eventually, we would end up on a coastline! 8-)

    I am not sure if chaotic traffic could be worse anywhere else in the world than in the Philippines! My dad, upon his return after we lived in Canada, got behind the wheel for the first time. He got a few miles before he stopped the car, got out of the driver's seat and refused to continue driving. He has never driven in Manila since!

    OPC - Thank you, especially for Pangaea! I wanted to mention something about Ireland and Philippines being geographically connected at some time but couldn't remember anything about the theory. 8-)

    Brenda - You are most welcome but all thanks go to you! I love your lists - they are such an original signature of your blog. Definitely look for it there (more than likely, it will be in the ice cream section). Now I really envy you: there are no Filipino restaurants or stores here which is why I have had to learn to make my fave dishes myself.

    Gera - Thank you! I must tell you that my husband and I are so fascinated with South America. He has been fortunate enough to travel to Brazil and Peru, and has come back with wonderful stories. If I pick your brain about Uruguay, it's because we are so fascinated but it's hard to find firsthand information about life as YOU live it, not as it is just for tourists! I hope I can do the same about the Philippines (even though I haven't lived there for a long time).

    Carolyn - Thank you! I so enjoyed thinking about the ways in which we are so similar rather than focusing on how we are different.

    Cris - Obrigada, amiga! The driving in Ireland was stressful because of the narrow roads and I wasn't used to being on the 'opposite' side but in the Philippines/Manila, it can be sooo crazy. I'm so happy someone else did all the driving for us! My husband thought that driving in Brazil was fine (although he said the traffic could get bad at certain times). He thought he would be comfortable behind the wheel there but he did say that the motorcycles weaving in and out of traffic would worry him. He also mentioned that he thought it was way better in Brazil than in Peru! 8-) (Apologies to any Peruvian readers!)

    This dessert is wonderful with any gelatin and as for coconut milk, it might still work if you use less or perhaps boil it down a little bit to make it thicker.

    Chef E - Great minds think alike (or is that naughty minds?)

  • Anonymous said...

    Very interesting (and delicious looking, too) content here, thanks for sharing. Especially love the analogies b/w Ireland and the Philipines - that an irish champ with the guiness consumption, too ;)

    And, this Buko Pandan looks divine! (Although it probably has a number of sugars/calories to it, this would fit just right with my no complex carbohydrate efforts that I recently started...*off to the asian market*).

  • Caitlin said...

    Hi- I can't remember if I posted on your site before, but I wanted to let you know that I really enjoyed your comparisons to the Irish:) I also wanted to tell you that I've loved following your discussion of Brian Wansink's book, and I just mentioned you on my post about him (he is coming to speak at my campus).

    Hope you had a great St. Patrick's day!

  • Jo said...

    Great post and I loved reading it. I especially liked the workd Filip-Irish ... sounds really exotic and mysterious, like Irish folk-lore.

  • Admin said...

    Haha, number 4 is funny. I'm sitting at a Starbucks and just scared the guy at the next table to death when I burst out laughing. Driving in Bangkok is exactly like that too. The painted dividers or traffic lights are just there solely for decorative purposes.

  • The Diva on a Diet said...

    Dear Noodle - I loved everything about this post! Just wonderful! I think you've perfectly captured the magic of the Emerald Isle here. Well done! I laughed out loud about the driving - OMG, so true. Its a hair-raising experience for sure. And I agree about feeling at home in Ireland. My relatives there always greet us by saying they're glad we've "come home" ... and they say and mean it for my mom too, who's not the least bit Irish! :)

    Love the looks of this yummy dessert too ... and its so pretty!

  • shnaggy said...

    hi there...wow u got a nice blog here. when we go to MAX, we never fail to order their buko-pandan, oh-yummy-and-not-so-sweet-but- sweet dessert.
    re the driving here...everyone from abroad gets scared. but my belgian friend...he got bumped more than five times...and he got bumped by the son of the owner of san miguel!!!

  • Anonymous said...

    "For the next 10 days, dear husband sat trapped in terror on the passenger side as I careened through the impossibly narrow paths that pass for Irish back roads..." LoL this made me chuckle, your poor husband!! He should trust you though, you made it out alive!

  • Unknown said...

    This is another awesome post (and yummy looking recipe). My mom's a Murphy - straight off the boat, as they say - and Irish families are known for being rather large. (I have over 20-something 1st cousins!). So, I say you can be an honorary member of the Murphy family of Co. Wexford! :-)

  • Anonymous said...

    Great post! Ireland's definitely on my list of countries to visit. I've heard about the driving situation in the Philippines before so we better brush up on our defensive driving skills before we head on over to Ireland. Thanks for the great recipe- pandan is one of my favorite flavors, but I have trouble finding fresh screwpine over here - have to use the extract or paste and it turns everything green (appropriate for St. Patty's day I guess).

  • Tangled Noodle said...

    Okay, I really need to get on the ball! Thanks for your replies and patience!

    ScottySnacks - Thanks! The parallels were uncanny between the two cultures. 8-) Hope you were successful at the market. BTW, the Magic Sauce appears again tonight in conjunction with a recipe from SippitySup. I'll let you know how it goes . . .

    Caitlin - Thanks so much! I'd love to hear what Dr. Wansink has to say. I missed my chance to see him speak at U of MN last year. I enjoyed visiting your blog and I look forward to reading about nutrition issues!

    Ricardo - Thank you! My husband has a hard time choosing between me and this dessert (but since he doesn't know how to make it himself, I win by default!)

    Karen - Thanks! Although I've put a bit of a funny twist to it, I really do feel strongly about Ireland and the Philippines. Our recent visits were really wonderful!

    Sophie - Thank you so much! I'm so happy you enjoyed it so much, you'd consider switching teams!

    Jo - I was hoping it didn't sound weird! Doggybloggy above suggested Irishino which also sounds exotic (Japanese almost!)

    Teanna - I hope you do! I've also used the cream with mango gelatin/pudding and it's just as delicious!

    Joie - I'm so embarrassed to be late with these replies! But happy French Friday again!

    Leela - I hope he recovered! I find it funny to hear people complain about traffic and driving here in the US. In comparison to Manila and Bangkok, it's calm and orderly here. BTW, I am so loving your mango and sticky rice posts!

    Diva - Thank you! You've brought me even closer to my "Irish-ness" with your awesome brown soda bread recipe. But Ireland really is something special - I want to tell everyone about it but at the same time, I want to be selfish and keep it all to myself! 8-)

    Foodie with Little Thyme - Thank you! The cream in this dessert is really versatile. I'm going to use for a host of other things now.

    Zerrin - I hope you have the opportunity: it really is lovely!

    Beancounter - It's a beautiful country! But I've also wanted to visit Australia for so long - my husband and I have said that one day, we'll take a long, long vacation to the Philippines but with a nice side-trip to Oz!

    Shnaggy - Did your friend get a nice big settlement? 8-) Love your Kookie; mine is Cruise, the goofy Boxer. Can you believe that our first taste of buko pandan was just this past Christmas when we visited my parents in Makati? I don't know how I could have missed it! My husband loves halo-halo so I guess we always ordered that instead. Thanks for visiting!

    Cynthia - There wasn't a more relieved person on the island when we finally turned in the car at the airport! He vowed that the next time we visit, HE gets to drive while I ride along. 8-)

    ValleyWriter - I would be honored to be considered a part of the Murphys of Co. Wexford! 8-) That's another similarity b/w Filipinos and Irish: the large families (thank you, Catholic Church!) When we visited the Philippines at Christmas, I actually had to write out an organizational chart for my husband so that he could follow who was who! But you definitely have me beat - 20 first cousins?!?

    meHungry - Thank you! The good thing is that you can still drive in Ireland - I will never have the courage to do it in the Philippines. The real difficulty with driving in Ireland are the very narrow roads, once you are off the main national highways. The country side is beautiful but I really couldn't enjoy it because I was too scared to take my eyes of the road! 8-)

    I was able to find frozen pandan leaves and wanted to make the gelatin from scratch but being such a lazy girl, I ran out of time. Fortunately, I'd picked up the ready mix . . . subconsciously knowing I'd need it?

  • Forager said...

    Fascinating entry! How can we not love the Irish? The language is so sing-song like - their news broadcasts are hilarious to listen to. *sigh* would love to go to Ireland!

    And I love these types of desserts - reminds me of my childhood :)

  • Tangled Noodle said...

    Jude - What else could it have possibly been? 8-) The coconut and potato comparison was a natural, especially since i've recently become coconut-crazy: I've been wanting to use it in everything!

  • Tangled Noodle said...

    Cpsanti - Thanks for visiting! Believe it or not, my first taste of buko pandan (that I know of) was just this past December when we visited my parents in the Philippines! Now it's become one of my favorite treats. Glad you enjoyed the pictures; Ireland is really lovely.

    Just visited your site and I can't wait to start reading your novel!

 

Clean Template ©Copyright 2011 Tangled Noodle | TNB